Choo-choo, choo-choooooo…
I can still hear that whistle. In 2023, hubby and I climbed aboard Ceres Rail for a day trip from Cape Town to the Elgin Railway Market. I didn’t realise at the time that I’d still be thinking about the journey years later. I certainly didn’t know that I would eventually find myself writing about it for Never-ending Nature.
In fact, I never published the story here. Life got in the way, as it does, and the photographs eventually hid somewhere on an external hard drive. But recently, I found them again. Looking back through those photographs brought the day’s memories rushing back: the beautiful landscapes through the windows, people waving as the train passed, the excitement of crossing Sir Lowry’s Pass, and that unmistakable steam-train whistle as we finally pulled into Elgin.
It seemed a shame to leave the memory sitting in a folder. So I am finally sharing memories from my trip aboard a Cape Town steam train, a wonderfully unusual South African experience worth remembering. It is the perfect Cape Town day trip if you are in the area over a weekend during one of their scheduled outings.
A steam train journey through time
Clare, the locomotive that pulled us towards Elgin, was already waiting at Cape Town’s Harbour Bridge when we arrived. I remember that day like yesterday, seeing this beautiful locomotive with steam spewing against the background of modern buildings. Her presence alone turned heads.
Built in 1948 by North British Locomotive, Clare is a Class 19D that was originally used on branch lines serving smaller towns and cities. She later worked for Union Limited Steam Rail Tours before Ceres Rai eventually rescued and restored her. There is something magical about seeing a locomotive with that much history preparing to take passengers on another journey.
Inside, the old-fashioned atmosphere continued. The train had 12 compartments, with different seating options ranging from day seats and family compartments to sitting rooms and an observation area at the rear. Some carriages sold coffee, snacks and drinks, so there was little reason to rush anywhere.
And that, I soon realised, was the point. Jumping onto an old steam train is an experience back into the past, back to a simpler time, where people had time to sit back, unwind, laugh and talk to each other.
When the landscape becomes the entertainment
The train took around four hours to reach Elgin, so it is an entire Cape Town day trip, not just a quick excursion. By road, the journey would have been considerably quicker. But when you’re travelling by heritage railway, the journey isn’t something to endure before the real experience begins. It is the experience.
As Cape Town receded behind us, the landscape gradually opened up. Urban areas gave way to vineyards and farmland, with mountains rising around the route. Now and then, people alongside the railway line waved as we passed. We waved back.
It sounds like such a small thing, but those moments became part of what made the journey special. A train moving through the countryside still makes people stop what they’re doing and watch. There was no rush to get anywhere. We could simply sit, look out of the windows and let the landscape unfold.
Taking the slow route: Cape Town steam train over Sir Lowry’s Pass
One of the most special moments was Sir Lowry’s Pass. Most of us know the pass from the N2, but seeing this landscape from a railway carriage gives you an entirely different perspective. The train slowed as it tackled one of South Africa’s steepest railway lines. Passengers gravitated towards the windows.
Below us, the landscape stretched towards False Bay while the mountains rose dramatically around the train. It was one of those moments when conversation naturally falls away. Everyone is looking. And because nobody is driving, nobody has to concentrate on the road. Everyone could simply take in the magical views.
A steam train with a conservation-minded twist
As a conservationist, one of the details that particularly interested me was happening right at the front of the train.
Steam locomotives were traditionally powered by coal, but Clare uses recycled oil instead. According to Rick Botha from Ceres Rail (then operational manager), oil reduced fire hazards and made operation more practical. From an environmental perspective, recycled oil gives waste oil a use rather than allowing it to fill landfills or potentially pollute groundwater. It is a small detail in the overall journey, but one I appreciated.
Heritage doesn’t necessarily have to mean keeping every aspect of the past unchanged. Sometimes preserving the experience means finding better ways to make it work in a modern setting.
The whistle at Elgin
After several hours aboard the train, we finally approached the Elgin Railway Market. And then came the moment I remember most clearly. Choo-choo, choo-choooooo…
The whistle sounded as we arrived, and suddenly the train itself became the attraction. A small crowd had gathered to watch us pull in. People raised their phones and cameras, children looked on excitedly, and passengers gathered to take a closer look at the locomotive.
But for us, there was another experience waiting just beyond the platform.
Steampunk, good food and an old apple shed
Stepping into the Elgin Railway Market felt a little like stepping onto a film set. The market occupies a huge old apple warehouse dating back to the 1940s, built by Italian prisoners of war, and its industrial bones have been given a wonderfully eccentric new life. Exposed structural details, Art Deco influences, and steampunk touches give the building character.
It is the sort of market that encourages you to settle in for a while. The aromas from the food stalls compete for attention, with everything from fragrant curries and Mediterranean dishes to pizzas, burgers, Thai food and other more adventurous options. There are sweet treats to tempt you afterwards, while local wines, beers and ciders make it very easy to turn lunch into a leisurely afternoon.
We opted for pasta and craft beer, found a spot to sit and listened to a live singer while playing a few games of chess. Looking back, it is one of those wonderfully ordinary memories that somehow makes a day special.
There was plenty more to explore, too. Small shops and stalls offered everything from jewellery and leather goods to clothing, gifts and speciality products.
Is a Cape Town steam train experience for me?
If you’re looking for a quick way to get from Cape Town to Elgin, a steam train probably isn’t the answer. If you’re looking for an experience, however, it is a different story. A Cape Town steam train journey is as much about the journey as the destination, making it a lovely option for families, couples, friends or anyone who enjoys travelling at a slower pace. Children get the excitement of riding on a real steam train, while adults can sit back, enjoy the scenery and soak up the nostalgia. There is something wonderfully simple about spending a day together watching the scenery roll past the windows, waving at people along the route and waiting for that familiar whistle.
Other Ceres Rail excursions
The Elgin trip is not the only way to experience heritage rail with Ceres Rail. The company runs a variety of special excursions and rail experiences, with destinations and themes changing throughout the year. Depending on the schedule, trips can take you to places such as Ceres and beyond, while special events can add everything from food and wine to live music to the journey. Check the latest trips and availability on the Ceres Rail website before planning your visit. Visit www.ceresrail.co.za
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